Friday, July 3, 2015

Day 3: Port Townsend to Port Angeles

Written by guest blogger, Craig Skiles. (Post 4 of 14)
Originally posted here.
Commentary [in green] provided by yours truly.

Monday June 9, 2015, 58 miles (93 km) - Total so far: 150 miles (241 km)

Fortunately, the other bike shop in Port Townsend opened at 9AM in the morning so the plan was to be waiting on their doorstep when they unlocked the door. The Broken Spoke, the other bike shop, was truly amazing. Pete let me into his store ten minutes before he opened, had a heli-coil to insert into the old crank arm, straightened my disc rotors, tightened my hubs, and adjusted my derailleurs. Fair prices and great service. I was back on the road in less than an hour. If in Port Townsend, don't hesitate to visit The Broken Spoke.

Sarah and I had found a helmet earlier in the morning at Fort Warden State Park and wondered if it was Gabbi's or maybe just one that was dropped by a kid at the park. We decided to bring it with us, and after finding Gabbi having a snack at a local coffee shop, we were able to reunite her with it.

Celebrating the recovery of Gabbi's helmet.

Sarah gives a big hug to the round man in Port Townsend.

We said our goodbyes to Steve and Gabbi and rode off to look for the start of the Olympic Discovery Trail (ODT).

Craig & Sarah at Mile 0 on the Olympic Discovery Trail.

Just south of Port Townsend, we found mile zero on the trail. The trail between Port Townsend and Port Angeles is mostly complete, but it does zig-zag a lot as you get close to Sequim. If you are in a hurry or just can't be bothered to look for the turns, then just stay on the main road into Sequim. Once past Sequim, the trail again becomes mostly complete and has some very steep spots as you are forced to climb out of several creek beds.

[Sarah: At the intersection of Highways 20 & 101, we stopped at Fat Smitty's for refreshments and some shade under which to enjoy our lunch. The front of Fat Smitty's is adorned by some large wood carvings. Craig and I pondered the sadness of a large tree, one that took thousands of years to grow, being cut down to later be carved into a double-decker burger.

The carvings outside of Fat Smitty's.

The gentleman who carved the sculptures happened to be outside of Fat Smitty's when we pulled up. He was very interested in our route and very interested in pointing out everything we should visit along the route. While he was a genuine and kind ol' soul, we found it difficult to pull away from the conversation so that we could tend to our growling stomachs. Though we were eventually saved by the ring of the sculptor's cell phone, he came over to chat us up numerous times while we were eating. Quite frankly, I think he was in need of some female attention.

The handcarver himself.

More carvings in front of Fat Smitty's.
Sarah tries on a new head.

The inside of Fat Smitty's was covered with thousands of dollar bills. Once every few years, the money is donated to a charitable cause.]

The inside of Fat Smitty's was covered with dollar bills.

I found that I was enjoying Sarah's company and although she was making some effort at making me less boring, I think I wasn't too annoying to her. At least I was able to mostly keep up with her fast pace.

Sarah's first attempt at making Craig less boring.

[Sarah: Whoa, whoa, whoa, Craig! Your senility is causing you some confusion -- you ain't anywhere near boring! I wasn't trying to make you less boring! No, no no! Rather, I was teaching you the fine art of making daisy chains. Don't you remember? I was giving you helpful hints on how to impress your wife. I was telling you, "Should you ever find yourself in a daisy field, pick some daisies, craft the daisies into a lovely bracelet or tiara, and then bestow on your wife your creation, all while professing your love with a perfectly romantic poem."]

The ODT was more difficult than I expected. It had lots of up and down and we didn't get to our warmshower host's house until after 6PM.

[Sarah: The Olympic Discovery Trail also shattered my expectations. I had assumed that the entire ODT was a rails-to-trails path, and that the grade of the path would thus not exceed 2%. Boy, was I wrong! There were some pretty steep sections, as the path led us in and out of ravines.]

Sarah rides on a bridge along
the Olympic Discovery Trail.

Be careful!

We stayed with Brigid and Casey in Port Angeles and they were wonderfully welcoming. After a shower, Brigid took us downtown to the BistroPub and we enjoyed some great food and locally brewed beer.

Casey, Brigid, and the doggies.

Brigid shows us her impressive print work. 

Today's route:


  1. I might have to get daisy chain lessons...

    OK yall have offically gone farther than I ever have on the peninsula, I am going to be taking notes from here on out. Did you sing "Reunited and it feels so good" when you returned the helmet?

  2. I'd be happy to give you daisy chain lessons as well.

    We did not sing "Reunited...," but we definitely shoulda. :)

    1. Adding daisy chaining to my official "to learn" list!


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